The term's origin is most often traced to Hong Kong. Historically, the government issued licenses for these cooked-food stalls. The licenses were physically large, so they were called “big licenses” or 大牌 (dàpái). A stall with such a license was therefore a 大排档 (dàpáidàng), literally a “big license stall”. Today, the meaning has evolved to describe the style of restaurant itself, even if it's not a licensed stall.